Mulled wine should smell like a warm kitchen at the start of winter. The secret is not a long list of spices. It is heat, and how little of it you use.

What you need (four mugs)

  • 1 bottle of fruity, soft red wine. Merlot, Garnacha or a simple Côtes du Rhône all work. Do not use your best bottle.
  • 1 orange: half sliced, half kept for juice
  • 2 cinnamon sticks, 4 cloves, 1 star anise
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons of sugar or honey, to taste

How to make it

  1. Put the wine, orange, spices and half the sugar in a pot over low heat.
  2. Warm it slowly until it steams and smells wonderful, about 15 to 20 minutes. It should be hot to sip, not bubbling.
  3. Taste. Add more sugar a little at a time.
  4. Ladle through a sieve into glass mugs. Garnish with an orange slice and a cinnamon stick.

The one rule

Do not let it boil. A hard boil drives off the alcohol and makes the spices bitter and the wine taste cooked. Low and slow is the whole method.

Make it your own

  • A small splash of brandy or orange liqueur adds warmth.
  • A slice of fresh ginger makes it sharper.
  • You can warm the wine in a slow cooker on low and leave it there for a party.

The zero-proof version

Use dark grape juice or apple juice, the same spices and orange, and a squeeze of lemon for brightness. Warm gently and serve the same way. Everyone at the table gets the same smell.

One more thing

Serve it in a mug with a handle, and hold it with both hands. Half the point is the warmth.